Surfing is in many ways similar
for all of us. And yet, is a uniquely personal, almost
private experience. One thing we all have in common is our
obsession to get wet. We spend a lot of time day dreaming
about surfing, checking the reports and secretly praying to
the surf gods. We watch the videos and flip through the
magazines, drooling at the exotic stand-up barrels and
pristine conditions of far away places. And every now and
then, we get to pull off one of those trips. But for most
of us, most of the time, hopping a plane for Indo or the
Islands is not on our weekly schedule. Instead, our surfing
life means a daily drive to a local break, with a few surf
check phone calls on the way. We surf whatever the ocean
throws our way....usually mediocre, sometimes good, and
every now and then, as good as it gets.
Deep Blue Zen is about our daily surfing life, what we see,
what we experience, capturing those moments.
I hope you enjoy the photos.
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